Texas metal buildings are our specialty at Absolute Steel Texas. We fabricate our own parts right here at our east Texas factory using only American steel and honest-to-goodness American craftsmen. Metal buildings by Absolute Steel Texas are offered in many different styles and we have a competent staff of people to guide you through the process.
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- Metal Building Styles
- Stand Alone Frame System
- Color Choices
- Engineered Plans
No other metal building fabricator in Texas offers so many different styles to choose from. Get serious, pick out what you like and call us at (888) 658-5147 or get a quote right now. We’re competent, creative, straight-up honest and you are the reason we’re in business!
Mohave Series Building:
The Mohave has the classic profiles of traditional steel buildings except to make it more economical, its wall panels run horizontally. This eliminates the need for some steel framing on the walls but does not affect its engineering capabilities.
Structurally, engineers consider it just as sturdy as the Sierra model and it has met engineering requirements in all 48 contiguous states. If you are looking for a traditional metal building look at the best possible price, then the Mohave series should be considered.
Sonoran Metal Building:
Our Sonoran style is the least expensive of all our Texas steel buildings. We call it the Sonoran (after the Sonoran desert) because we feel it is best suited for dry climates as the roof panels run horizontally, thereby interrupting some of the water flow off the roof causing little bits of it to “hang up” on the horizontal ridges of the panels.
While we’ve not had them leak if properly installed, we suggest they not be installed in any climate experiencing much snow as the ridges do prohibit run off which can cause some snow build up over prolonged periods of winter weather.
Sierra Series Building:
The Sierra is your classic metal building with the wall panels running vertically just like the roof panels. The Sierra features the Stand Alone frame system which means if you are considering an exterior different from metal panels this would be the frame system best suited for that. Customers who have bought this frame system have finished the exteriors in all sorts of different finishes: OSB & stucco, brick, barn wood and wood shingles just to name a few. And it looks great just like it’s normally sold–with painted metal panels!
A Sierra metal building in a commercial application
A Sierra metal building used as a poolside retreat
Teton Series Building:
The Teton’s unique exterior panels are designed to look like wood shiplap siding. The panels and the Teton’s distinctive 12” eave overhang look great in a residential setting. Fact is, unless you’re up close you wouldn’t even know the Teton is a steel building. The frame system is much like the Mohave because the Teton’s panels run horizontally. It has no purlins in the roof because the panels attach directly to the main frame members (rafters). Unfortunately it is not as inexpensive as the Mohave due to its heavy gauge panels and unique frame/trim pieces used to achieve the 12’ soffit overhang.
A Teton metal building used as a residential garage
A Teton metal building used as a residential building
Alpine Metal Building:
The Alpine’s steep roof lines (6/12 roof pitch) make it the natural metal building for the high country where you want the roof to shed snow as quickly as possible—that is the reason for high pitched roofs in snow country.
The wall panels can be applied horizontally or vertically. Indeed, the roof panels can be applied either way but we would recommend a vertical application of the roof on this steel building to allow for easy shedding of water or snow. An extra bonus—the Alpine offers some light weight storage solutions up on a second deck (optional—not included in the standard quote) which is a handy feature.
Gambrel Metal Building:
The gambrel is sometimes called the Dutch Gambrel or Dutch Hip. The gambrel metal building has a symmetrical two sided roof with slopes on both sides. The upper slope is positioned at less of a pitch or angle than the lower one. Doing this provides all the advantages of a sloped roof while maximizing head room which is what it was designed to do. So while this upper space is handy to have, quotes on our website do not reflect any of the steel framing used to create that upper deck.
Metal Gambrel Barn Building
Combo Metal Building:
As its name implies, the Combo is part steel carport, part steel building. The result is a very practical metal building that gives shelter and storage at a price that’s hard to beat. The storage area can be located on the side or at the end depending upon your preferences. Side and roof panels can be mounted horizontally or vertically. If you’re considering a side combo, seriously consider having the storage access at either end so that whatever you have under carport doesn’t hinder access to the storage area when it’s parked.
Metal building with end combo
Metal building with side combo
The Stand Alone Frame System
The core of our Texas metal buildings
We use only US steel in our frame systems because then we know the steel in our metal buildings and steel carports measures up to the specifications that engineering calls for. It would be negligent of us to use anything else because foreign steel can be just like canned soup – you don’t really know what’s in it despite what is represented.
An Absolute Steel Garage Frame
The Same Frame With Stucco Finish
Steel Frame System
Frame kit with panels attached
As far as the competition goes? We use larger sized steel, stronger steel (that actually specs out), and a more corrosive resistant steel so you’re ensured the best possible product that your money can buy.
No other tubular steel building system offers you the flexibility and ease of installation to make your exterior walls in most any finish you want—or the inside walls for that matter. Our customers have used our frame system along with wood, stucco, brick and even shingles to achieve the look they wanted.
The Stand Alone frame system is quite different from other steel building systems in that the structural stress in our steel buildings is evenly dispersed throughout the entire frame system. Besides saving tremendously on your concrete foundational requirements, this works quite well for cladding walls whether interior or exterior. It makes the job easier and cheaper because you don’t have to add much in the way of additional frame components.
So what does all this mean to you?
- This means you won’t have those cumbersome I-beams to deal with that require forklifts or cranes. This saves you money whether you build yourself or have one of our professional independent crews do it for you.
- This means you’re going to save on your concrete foundational requirements—depending upon the size of the metal building, this can amount to a savings of thousands.
- This means your end walls will not have those “cross-tie cable end supports” to contend with—we don’t believe a metal building should be “wired” together anyway.
- This means you have the most economical means to use most any exterior material you want on the outside of your steel building—stucco, brick, stone, wood etc. Yes, you can have the integrity and reliability of steel and still comply with your HOA or local building department.
- This means if you want a Texas metal building, you’re at the right place!
You can have the highest quality steel panels in the world and if they’re not adequately protected, you’re wasting your money. All our Texas metal buildings and steel carports use the best painted steel panels that are also made in America – naturally. The panels we use on our metal building walls and roofs come with a 40 year limited warranty on the paint finish cracking, checking, peeling or losing adhesion. Additionally the paint finish is guaranteed not to fade, chalk or lose color for a period of 30 years.
Choose Your Color Combo!
Behind the strongest steel panels available on the market today is the best paint finish.
Kynar 500®/ Hylar 5000®
Kynar 500®/Hylar 5000® resin-based paint coatings outperform virtually all other coil coatings in color and gloss retention and in resistance to chalking. Kynar 500®/Hylar 5000® has a superior 2-coat system (primer and color coat) that is unsurpassed in its resistance to damaging UV rays. These systems resist general air pollution and will not pit or whiten when exposed to moist environments such as rain, dew, fog, acid rain and chlorinated air.
The service life of Kynar 500®/Hylar 5000® coatings and their long-term durability are unparalleled in the industry. These finishes are factory applied and oven baked by the coil coater. Kynar 500® / Hylar 5000® finishes are virtually maintenance-free and non-staining. If cleaning is required, either conventional detergents or solvent-type cleaners can be used. Kynar 500®/Hylar 5000®panels will look as good years from now as the day they are installed. All Kynar 500®/Hylar 5000® colors carry a 40 year limited warranty.
Don’t worry about having exterior paint maintenance on a steel building from Absolute Steel!
Installation and Construction
Absolute Steel Texas maintains relationships with many different professional installers who will erect your metal building or steel carport in most parts of Texas. For exact pricing you need to call our offices but you can estimate it’s going to run about 25% of the price of the metal building plus applicable mileage charges, if any.
Metal buildings and steel carports manufactured by Absolute Steel Texas are truly a breakthrough in construction simplicity. They are designed to use a minimum of components, most of them modular and interchangeable. They are easily assembled by inexperienced people with common tools. We make them that way for the do-it-yourselfer and also for the professional installers throughout the State of Texas who perform installations for our customers.
Our metal buildings feature:
- Little to no lifting equipment required on most models—the heaviest component weighs slightly over 30 pounds.
- No forklifts needed! Absolute Steel metal buildings are easy to install.
- Our easy Slip-Joint main frame parts make assembly a snap!
- We provide step-by-step instructions that have been perfected over years of experience and individually customized with drawings based upon your order.
Steps 1 thru 6 below illustrate the simplicity of installation that is one of the hallmarks of our metal buildings. If you‘d like a set of instructions mailed or e-mailed to you, please call us. We also have a complete installation DVD that we’ll send if you’d like.
Assemble and position roof/wall frames
Attach purlins and girts
Install door and window framing
Attach side panels and metal roofing
At Absolute Steel Texas we’re dedicated to constant improvement. This page will address particular components of our metal buildings and steel carports and why we make them the way we do. Where ever possible, we included pictures for greater illustration.
We have a great deal of experience in metal roofing panels and various other kinds of metal roofing. It’s only natural that we would because of our years of experience in using them to “skin out” our steel building frame systems. Absolute Steel has taken advantage of those years of experience in metal roofing and is now one of the largest distributors of metal roofing in America through its site www.metalroofingsource.com.
So to say we know steel panels would be an understatement. We know them well and want you to know that we use only steel panels with minimum yield strength of 80,000 pounds or 40 tons of pressure per square inch. That means the steel used on the exterior of our Texas metal buildings and steel carports can withstand that kind of pressure before “going plastic” or “yielding”.
We insist on the best protective paint system on those panels as well and invite you to learn more about that at our Available Colors page where you can also read the terms of the 20, 30 and 40 year paint warranty against fading, chalking or peeling.
Steel Frame System
There is a reason our metal buildings and steel carports are in use by all branches of the US Armed Services. Its simple—they have their specifications and we meet or exceed them. Our steel is tested and proven to be stronger and more corrosive resistant than any other steel on the market.
We use 65,000 psi minimum yield strength steel in all our metal buildings in Texas. The competition uses a maximum of 50,000 psi steel and in most cases you have no idea what strength the steel is because it’s from Mexico or China where they don’t have to meet any strength criteria.
Base Rail System
The base of your metal building or steel carport needs strength and support – it is at the foundation of any structure. The rest of the building depends on it and the most stress is put on it. Absolute Steel uses an insert system which means none of those base rail uprights contain any fabricated parts which can lead to weakened connections. In other words, we don’t use any type of crush, rolling or bending process in the vertical uprights of our base rails. This causes a bit more labor but we think it’s worth it. Here’s why:
At the bottom is where condensation and water can damage your base rail system. We like using rugged 14 gauge steel pins or inserts there because the thicker, consistent connections bear the weight of the structure better than machined or formed parts.
All the upright vertical inserts pieces are 12” tall which gives you more ability to adjust for any onsite irregularities on your land and uncompromising steel is the strongest way to achieve that.
The connection at the base rails needs a very consistent fit—sometimes two people or more are holding the frame system up while having it slip down over the insert or pin. If this didn’t go on easily and still fit like a glove, we’d have you getting grumpy at us.
The Worst Connection
A Better Connection
The BEST Connection
Side Walls – An easier assembly and a stronger wall.
- It stands to reason that a single piece sidewall is going to be stronger than one that uses multiple pieces.
- Less connections to join together makes for less man hours during assembly.
- You get a perfectly straight wall that can easily be adjusted in the field if necessary.
These two pictures illustrate a multiple piece sidewall (inserted pieces used to extend a sidewall height).
Their Multi-Piece Sidewall
It stands to reason that the more parts you have, the less overall strength you’ll have. Not to mention the extra work involved!
Our Single Piece Sidewall
This is ours. There’s no additional parts to mess with, and by virtue of there being no connections, you will have a stronger sidewall!
Peak and Eave Bends – The Power Bend
Everyone knows how steel is made stronger with curves and angles. Think of the body of your car; if it did not have those contours and angles, the car body would not be as strong as it is. We apply the same principal to our bending process to ensure strength.
When we fabricate the Power Bend for our metal buildings and steel carports our process adds six more surfaces/angles to the bend so instead of weakening the steel, we strengthen it.
Let’s look at the different ways bends are created and see for ourselves why Absolute Steel makes a better product:
The Crush Bend – This is the worst technique.It weakens the steel precisely where it should not. As a side note—look at the joints; they only used one screw on each side. That kind of laziness will result in someone getting hurt!
The Mandrel Bend – The company that produces this makes the claim “smooth mandrel bend for a cleaner look and stronger bend transition”.We beg to differ. You can’t stretch metal and make it stronger. See the stress marks on the tube where its been stretched? Those are now severely weakened areas exactly where you don’t want them.
The POWER BENDThe Power Bend is a result of rolling the excess steel while the curvature is created. The rolled edging now gives strength to the transition curve.Not only do we have the original integrity of the steel intact, we have added strength and durability.
Swedging is the term used for reducing tubular steel. The swedge (a reduced end) is what slips into another length of tube steel. Just like the bending process, you have the crush reduction, the mandrel reduction and then you have how its done right if you want your Texas metal building or steel carport to last and be safe.
Crush Reduction Swedge – Not only is it ugly, it’s not very smart: part of the integrity of the joining members is a snug, close fit. Strength is added that way. There’s certainly a reduction in strength with a Crush Reduction causing all that air space instead of fitting like it should.
Mandrel Swedge – This is a bit closer to what’s needed but still misses the mark. The missing feature is the rolled edge corners that give more structural strength to the tube.
POWER SWEDGE – Not only do our swedges fit like a glove causing more actual contact between both pieces of steel, its corners are rolled to give it more strength.Our swedges are so exacting that we have certain parts of our Texas metal buildings and steel carports that actually telescope. That means that the same parts can be used with various heights. Thinking ahead like that gives you or your installer an easier to assemble product and it’s more efficient for us – and that means the best possible pricing. That’s efficiency in design!
Concrete and Foundation Requirements
Please Note: Texas is unique in that except in towns, cites and other municipal entities engineering and permits for a metal building or steel carport are not required. Texas counties require no engineering or permitting. We believe the safest way to anchor a structure is what an engineer would require if he/she were involved. The following methods illustrate what those requirements would be under various circumstances.
Either system we offer – the Classic or the Engineered can be anchored to either concrete or ground. There are some variables that can come up that may change the below described methods such as frost lines, soil conditions etc. but as a general rule, these are the ways you would anchor your Texas steel building or carport.
Ground Mount – When you don’t intend to have a concrete floor.
Concrete Caissons (Engineering Available)
When mounting to the ground its best to dig or auger a post hole about 10″ in diameter and 30″ deep. You’ll need to do this at every vertical upright—either every 5’ or 4’ depending upon which frame system you purchased. After your base rails are together place them over the holes, affix your ground anchor to the base rail with the remainder of the ground anchor in the augered hole. Fill the hole with concrete.
MR 68 Ground Clamps (Engineering Available)
An MR 68 is a ground anchor something like what is used in a mobile home application. Their clamps, which expand once they are tightened, are affixed to a 30″ piece of allthread. Another rod (pounding rod) is inserted into the clamp and a large sledge or smaller jack hammer is used to lower the MR 68 into the ground. One leaves about 6″ of the allthread exposed then slips the base rail over the allthread. Place a nut onto the allthread and tighten it up to secure the base rail.
Straight Ground (Engineering Not Available)
This is by far the simplest way but engineers won’t go for it. Just hammer the ground anchors into the ground and affix them to the base rails. Metal building and steel carports have been anchored like this for many years with no problem but it’s a judgment call on your part. If you’re anchoring anything 20’ wide or greater we recommend at least anchoring the four corners with concrete caissons then hammering the remaining ground anchors in by themselves and affixing them to the base rails.
Concrete Slab and Footing Requirements
There are two ways to pour your slab and footings which an engineer will approve or recommend. The third method described below has been done for years in Texas counties and has held up nicely for decades.
In all methods, you will be doing what’s called a monolithic pour or monolithic slab where the slab and the footing are poured at the same time.
You’ll need to build your forms for a 4″ thick slab using minimum 2800 psi concrete—make it thicker if you’re putting heavy vehicles or RVs on it. Your footings will be 12″ deep, using the 4″’ of slab as a part of that depth. Your footings will have 2 #4 rebar top and bottom (or 1 #5 rebar) in a continuous run around the perimeter of the slab. The slab will have #3 rebar on 24″ centers or fibermesh reinforcement added to the mix. If you go with the fibermesh use a concrete mix no less than 4000psi so that when you’re finishing it, the “hairs” of the fibermesh are caught in the concrete cream and don’t stand up like hair on a pig.
Second Method (Easier and engineers just fine)
Below your slab and around the perimeter you have an 8″ deep footer 12″ wide. Every 9 feet around the perimeter you auger a hole that is 8″ in diameter and 24″ deep. There is no steel used in this monolithic slab.
Third Method (Engineering Not Available)
In counties areas (outside cities and towns)Texas metal buildings have been anchored for decades in the following way: In the 4″ concrete slab put #3 rebar on 24″ centers. Around the perimeter of your 4″ slab dig a six inch deep “turndown” with your shovel.
If you live in an incorporated municipality or town in Texas, chances are you will be required to get a building permit to build a metal building or steel carport on your property. Obtaining a permit usually requires engineered plans. In some instances they will be satisfied with a permit fee and drawings only—unstamped and unsealed by the engineer. If so, we’ll provide that at no charge at the time of your purchase.
Many times we have sold our steel buildings and carports to individuals who were required to obtain a permit but didn’t. They bought the Engineered System and built it according to our instructions, which will engineer, and documented the concrete footings and steel with a camera while the work was done. That way if they were later required to obtain a building permit, they had proper documentation on the items such as footings and those people then came back to us and bought the engineering and got their permit
If you are proceeding forward in this manner: Do not place your steel building or carport on your lot in violation of setbacks, distances from other building,s etc. PUT IT IN THE RIGHT PLACE.
Compliance with your local building department is your responsibility.
Obtaining a Building Permit
Once you have your engineered plans in-hand, you will usually need a site plan showing where you intend to build your metal building. Hand drawn is typically fine. We do not obtain permits for you. This would require a person traveling the State of Texas to pull this off and you would not be happy with the charges. Besides, you as a homeowner in your own town will be given far less hassles than a professional.
It’s all about saving you money!
Cost & Ordering Plans
The costs for three sets of original stamped and sealed drawings and structural calculations by a licensed Texas engineer is $450 for carports and $650 for buildings.
If you are intending to place the structure on “stepped elevations” due to site irregularity, the costs would increase somewhat. Please consult with your Absolute Steel representative for pricing if this is the case.
Before ordering engineering for your metal building in Texas, please consult your local building department’s requirements about lot line set-backs and distance from other structures on your property which is for fire department access in case of emergency.
We have no interest in you purchasing engineering if you can’t use it.
Deal Direct With the Factory – We’ll Build Your Metal Building!
Call Us At (888) 658-5147
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